Magical Island of Mauritius
Mark Twain is regularly misquoted as saying that “Golf is a good walk spoiled.” This was actually first said many years after his death, and for golfers is something of a heresy. What he certainly DID say is that "you gather the idea that Mauritius was created first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius." Regardless of your spiritual views, you cannot argue that this is a sumptuously gorgeous island. Even without the golf, and there are apparently some people for whom this wouldn’t be an issue, it has endless, eye-catching charm. If you then add in its lovely and varied courses, and you have one of golf’s most beautiful destinations.
Ile aux Cerf
Much of the golf is dotted along the dramatic and jagged 110-mile coastline, and on the east coast we first encounter the sporty 9-holer at the One&Only Saint Geran resort. Gary Player designed the layout 45 years ago in a plantation of almost 5,000 coconut palms, which divide the ocean and the lagoon. Tricky when the wind is up, it is a fun alternative or warmer-upper to the two superb Belle Mare Plage courses that are in close proximity, The Legend and The Links.
Each of its two neighbours have hosted the European Senior Tour, with the Legend designed 26 years ago by South African Hugh Baiocchi. The greens have since been rebuilt and are now first-class, and the course runs through an old deer reserve where they are still frequently seen. Water provides a constant challenge, no more so than at the signature 17th; a thrilling, short hole played across the lagoon to a very tricky green. The long par-4 closing hole snakes its way round to a peninsular green flanked on both sides by more water, right below the clubhouse. After the round, it is a treat to relax with a drink whilst watching others in the following groups face the same quandaries. The Links was designed by Peter Alliss and Rodney Wright and is slightly more open. Nonetheless, with a par of 71, it is a genuine and different experience in its own right, again with water an intimidating but photogenic distraction. To have the two courses together is a real bonus as they provide hugely entertaining and varied golf throughout. The Legend course has the fine hotel Constance Belle Mare Plage on site, with its sister hotel Constance Prince Maurice a short drive away from both courses.
Anahita Golf & Spa Resort
Just a few minutes down the road and you come to the most easterly point on the island which is home to two more very special courses. Their hotels are now working together to offer golfers a very tempting twosome which provide a real contrast in style despite being separated by just the Ile Aux Cerfs lagoon. Anahita was designed by 4-time Major champion, Ernie Els. The Big Easy has included some tough, deep bunkers and made use of a number of natural streams and ponds as well as an existing drystone wall. From the back tees it is a whopping 7,500 yards, but there are alternatives to cater for golfers with less superhuman powers. Anahita opened 12 years ago and boasts a glorious setting with the real highlight being the six holes that run along the palm-fringed shoreline. There is definitely something of a sting in the tail with the closing trio all very dramatic.
From parts of the course, it is possible to look over the water and see the amazing Ile Aux Cerfs course. This is one of the most photographed courses in the world and whilst there are others situated on islands, not too many have just the course and the clubhouse filling them completely and perfectly. Even the approach is special; a short gentle boat ride from the Shangri-La’s Le Touessork resort over the clear waters of the shallow lagoon. When Bernhard Langer designed this fantasy island course, he shunned the idea of relaxing, gentle holiday golf. It has since been softened a little in places but is still demanding, exhilarating and spectacular. On many shots there is the need to carry the ball over sea, swamp or lagoon, and it is kept in flawless condition with every hole separate, framed by trees, shrubs and water.
Le Touessrok
Just west of the southernmost tip of Mauritius comes the Heritage Golf Club in Club at Domaine de Bel Ombre. This has been built over more undulating ground with the course rising from just above the sea up towards the Black River Gorges National Park. There are superb views in every direction, including over the neighbouring Valriche Nature Reserve where you may catch glimpses of all manner of interesting wildlife, even flying foxes and the occasional mongoose. The design takes full advantage of the two rivers that run across the property and there are several lakes, which come into play offering plenty of risk and reward.
Alexandra Falls
Nearby is the striking Mourne Mountain peninsular, that is home to the delightful and appropriately, named Paradis Golf Resort & Spa. The opening holes run behind the hotel and its equally appealing sister resort of Dinarobin. The course has been regularly tweaked and upgraded over the years, and you play through fragrant bougainvillea and poinsettia before you reach more open golfing terrain where water takes over, lakes and ditches, as well as the dreamy-looking lagoon that borders the superb long 16th. Both hotels offer spas, deep-sea fishing, and delicious, gourmet fine-dining as well as plenty of other holiday pursuits.
Tamarina is a little way up the west coast and a few miles south of the Mauritian capital of Port Louis. Opened in 2007, it is the island’s first purpose-built residential golfing estate, and the par-72 course runs over undulating ground that resembles rugged African savannah. The fairways are framed by seas of native grasses, and there are superb views overlooking the blue waters of Tamarin Bay and up to Mount Rempart and the mountains beyond. The River Rempart runs down through the course, which again provides a quite different set of thrills and spills for the visiting golfer.
Two more fabulous developments have come into play since my last visit; the Avalon Golf Estate in the central highlands in 2015, and way up in the north, the newest addition, Mont Choisy.
Mauritius and its golf can be summed up together very simply; beautiful, exotic, varied and full of charm - I clearly need to get back over there!
