KwaZulu Natal – a feast for the visitor
KwaZulu Natal (KZN) has to be one of, if not the most beautiful provinces in South Africa with so, so much to offer its visitors and, like the Cape Province, it’s ideal for a genteel road trip. In fact it has so much to offer that rather than giving a ‘set menu’ of superb locations for an itinerary, this will be an ‘a la carte’ selection of places you could visit – just see which ones are of interest and a bespoke itinerary, using as many or as few of the ‘dishes’ as you wish, can be created to suit; all with a simple circular routing. Your choices will be golf, beach, food, safari, history, wine and mountains. And a bit more golf at the end for good measure.
The hub airport for KZN is King Shaka International near Durban and can be reached either via Johannesburg or Dubai on Emirates, with the latter offering to take your clubs within a generous checked-in weight allowance. Just a very short drive or transfer from the airport and overlooking the Indian Ocean is your first recommended port of call. If you do choose Emirates you’ll need to stopover on arrival as the flight arrives late afternoon.
The Fairmont Zimbali is a large contemporary resort hotel offering a range of sporting facilities, the major of which is the Tom Weiskopf designed course, with another being planned. The course is Links/Forest hybrid by nature winding its way through the coastal dunes before entering the indigenous forest for the last six holes. As your first course in Africa it’s a challenge enough to start with. For the main course though head 45 minutes down the road to the northern suburbs of Durban and the Durban Country Club, home to the Volvo Masters or try the historic Royal Durban, which somehow has the knack of being in the centre of the city without you realising it.
For those who prefer a little more exclusivity stay a few miles further up the coast at The Oyster Box in Umhlanga, a gem of a hotel, right on the edge of the ocean with its own lighthouse.
From there head north up KZN’s Elephant Coast, near the remote nature reserve by Rocktail Bay, to the intimate Thonga Beach Lodge. Its 12 individual eco-sensitive suites sit in the coastal dune forest and affords its guest the chance to totally relax or choose from a range of activities – the diving here is superb with, season dependent, Southern Right whales, dolphins and whale sharks. It’s also where the Leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Or maybe visit the hippos in nearby Lake Sibaya.
Bidding farewell to the ocean you then ‘head up-country’ to an area where many famous historical characters such as Sir Winston Churchill and Mahatma Gandhi played their part; the battlefields of Zululand. Close to towns with familiar names such as Newcastle, Dundee and Glencoe and infamous ones such as Ladysmith and Mafeking. Many battles were fought here in this area between the Boers, the Zulus and the British – perm any two and they’ve fought each other at least once. Stay at Fugitives’ Drift Lodge, set in a 5,000 acre Natural Heritage Site, bordering the Buffalo River, with the lodge perched on the hillside facing the rising sun. You’ll experience the sites of the battles of Isandlwana and of Rorke’s Drift (where 11 VC’s were won in one night) and you’ll begin to understand the background to how this great country was forged.
Heading further inland towards Cathedral Peak Hotel, the giant peaks of the Drakensberg escarpment begin to appear on the horizon. Rising to almost 11,500 feet, their majesty makes for superb backdrop to its Par 70 golf course. An additional pull being the new venture of Cathedral Peak wines. But before reaching for the clubs at Cathedral Peak take time out to experience Nambiti Private Game Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where all the well known African mammals roam its 22,000 acres. Stay at Nambiti Hills game lodge – a five star experience.
You are now just a 2½ drive from Durban and journeys end but still with two other locations to add to your wish list.
The first of which is perhaps your last chance to get out the Big Bertha (other brands are available) at Champagne Sports Resort. Situated on the very edge of the central Drakensberg escarpment, this is a classical woodland course but it has some really tough opening holes – beware of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th! If you can stop the ball on the narrow 15thgreen, having avoided the water, then you’re having a good day. Mind the 18th though.
And finally, a short distance outside the small town of Mooi River is a real gem of a property; Hartford House is an elegant award winning country hotel from a bygone era. The food is exceptional and the coffee even better. Set in the heart of Summerhill Stud, an award winning Thorough Bred stud farm, whose horses have won many prestigious races worldwide, Hartford is the ideal location to visit Giants Castle, another UNESCO World Heritage site, where Bushman’s rock art dating back millennia can be seen. Close by is the Nelson Mandela capture site, where by pure chance his car was pulled over by police on 5thAugust 1962. The rest is history.
From here it’s just a gentle 1½ hour drive back to Durban and very sadly, a flight home. You could though squeeze in a round at Royal Durban as the Emirates flight leaves early evening.
How hungry do you feel now for a KZN experience?