Algarve, Portugal

Portugal’s Algarve, never disappoints!

A Golf Road trip? That is what I did to rediscover the well-known gems of Portugal’s Algarve, and got to know the lesser known but upcoming new comers on the block.

I travelled west to east from the rugged cliff-strewn city of Lagos with one of Portugal’s most striking natural attractions, the Ponta da Piedade a group of dramatic yellow golden rock formations which soar 20 meters high dominating the Atlantic coastline, passing central Algarve with its plethora of Michelin star restaurants and innovative wineries, to the eastern resort of Monte Rei close to the Spanish border and the heart of the historic Eastern Algarve, with its Roman architecture, scenic fishing ports and a deep classic Portuguese gastronomic heritage.

My route offers no less than 13 golf courses all with something different to offer and an impressive number of 5-star luxury hotels from striking modern resort hotels to small quirky boutique guest houses. We can curate for you a holiday of fabulous golf, memorable living and dining, and don’t forget the wine tour experiences at the impressive wineries located along Algarve. Considering Portugal for an autumn/winter or pre-season preparation in the Spring? I concluded my ‘road trip’ with a PGA coaching course at Monte Rei, where Paul Stuart head professional at the London Golf Club was running one of our Front 9 Travel coaching trip for a small group for intensive personal coaching and some fun.

I based the first part of my trip around three golf courses, all within 10 to 15 minutes from the town of Lagos. Firstly, Boa Vista, located high on the cliffs with its far-reaching views of the Bay of Lagos to the east and the Monchique mountains to the north. The golf course uses the natural contours of the terrain and as a result it presents plenty of challenge especially on holes six and eight where you have to hit your ball across a ravine!  Secondly, Espiche Golf, located in a nature reserve is an eco-resort which has been perfectly integrated into the surrounding natural environment. Preservation, conservation and innovation of resource management are at the heart of this golf club. The course was designed to integrate effortlessly into the surrounding countryside and the indigenous flora and fauna of the area have been preserved. Long and challenging for all level of golfer where straightness and accuracy are essential for a low score. And, finally Palmares GC which originally opened in 1975 and then Robert Trent Jones II, worked his magic and it re-opened in 2011 with 27 holes, this wonderfull course has three nine-hole loops “Alvor”, “Lagos” and “Praia” each have their own special characteristics with stunning country, river and ocean views and links-style winding through the dunes along the Atlantic coast and with the remaining laid out over gently undulating fairways. Rated 26th in the Top 100 Golf Courses in Europe.

With these three courses in mind, I started my tour with a stay at Cascades Wellness Resort, a 10-minute drive to the restaurants and historic sites of the centre of the historic town of Lagos. This 5-star resort has 105 rooms and suites, decorated in five different styles from Asia to Portugal and 58 apartments, which are more like mini villas. Rooms are large and comfortable but I suggest a room with the dramatic sea views is definitely worth the extra cost. I loved the coastal path walks that run from the hotel toward the Ponta da Piedade lighthouse and the panoramic view of the 5km white sandy beach of Meia Praia that runs all the way from the Alvor estuary to Lagos.

For those wanting walkable restaurant, bars and shops, and the historic flavour of Lagos, consider the 4-star hotel Tivoli Lagos, a short walk from Lagos's old town, with its winding pebble streets peppered with coffee shops and al fresco restaurants. The hotel has a seasonal free shuttle bus to the white sands of Meia Praia Beach which is 10 minutes away, and is about the same distance to get to my suggested golf courses.

The inside of the property is the work of famous Portuguese interior designer Maria Jose Salavisa. White-and-blue walkways run through the hotel, and cosy touches like reading nooks keep things homely. Outside, you'll find lots of courtyard gardens dotted around. I recommend a newly refurbished superior room is the best option.

If you are looking for a smaller boutique feel to your accommodation and Michelin star dining experience then consider the Palmares Beach House, part of the Palmares Golf Resort.  The feeling of a house by the sea integrated between the greens of the golf course and the blues of the majestic ocean, a 5-star boutique hotel with only 20 rooms. A short walk away is The Clubhouse, which provides the perfect to place for golfers to relax. With two restaurants to choose from, at the main restaurant you can enjoy local and international cuisine, it serves breakfast, lunch and early dinner. The Al Sud Michelin star restaurant offers modern, creative cuisine centred on three enticing menus that showcase the local area and its flavours. All the spacious rooms are decorated in soft pale colours that reflect the landscape and the balconies have amazing panoramic views of the golf course, Atlantic Ocean and the long beach of Meia Praia, which stretches from Ria de Alvor estuary to the historical walls of the city of Lagos.  As soon as you walk into this small friendly hotel, you see the amazing views and you immediately feel relaxed.

Leaving the area of Lagos, I drive east toward Portimao my destination en-route, Penina Hotel & Golf Resort, the ancestral home of golf in the Algarve. Steeped in golf history the course was the first, and remains one of the best, to be built in the Algarve in 1966. The resort's 18-hole Championship Course, founded by John Stilwell and designed by golf architect Sir Henry Cotton, himself a championship golfer, has hosted the Portuguese Open on many occasions. The original 18-hole course now called the Championship course, is the gem of this resort but don’t discount the 9-hole Resort and the par 3 Academy courses both giving a wide range of options to many different standards and mixed groups of golfers.

I hadn’t visited the Penina hotel for many years but was pleased to see that it has retained its traditional Portuguese look and feel, a true gem of a hotel offering a 5-star experience to its many loyal clientele, many of whom have been visiting for years.  The hotel has recently refurbished some rooms and bathrooms, and make sure you ask for a room with a pool or golf course view.

On my third day, I travelled a short distance from Penina toward Alvor, a beautiful and charming fishing town with strong Moorish historic roots and a medieval castle and churches. Traditional white washed houses and narrow streets house the best of Portuguese gastronomy, ‘Ruccola’ and ‘O Arco da Velha’ both well worth a visit but it is essential to pre-book. Alvor has some of the most ravishing beaches in the world, large stretches of uninterrupted pristine sand, golden dunes and crystal-clear waters.

Alvor is the home to four ‘Pestana Hotels’ an award-winning Portuguese owned luxury hotel brand whose ethos is to be the guardians of Portuguese culture and heritage. In the area of Alvor are; Alvor Praia, Blue Alvor, Alvor South Beach and Dom Joao II.  Offering a range of location, luxury and price.

The 5-star Alvor Praia and 4-star Dom Joao II are the favourite with golfers, both on the beach offering rooms with sea views and within walking distance to restaurants in the town. The Alvor Blue is the first all-inclusive hotel built for families in the Algarve. It’s set back from the beach in its own gardens. The low-rise Art Deco Alvor South Beach is an 89-room boutique hotel which has been designed to mimic Miami’s real South Beach, it has direct access to Tres Irmao Beach and a 10-minute walk away from Alvor village with its many local restaurants.

If you choose to stay at any of these hotels then a plethora of golf is available as you will have access to the Pestana golf courses; Quinta do Gramacho, Vale da Pinta, Silves and Alto Golf. If you are looking for a hotel on the golf course and are perhaps a golf group then consider the Pestana Gramacho apartments and studios, perhaps not so luxurious but practical and functional with immediate on-site access to two golf clubs.

Continuing east a short drive away is the recently refurbished 5-star Tivoli Carvoeiro. Perched dramatically on the golden cliffs of the Vale Covo and with far reaching views of the Atlantic Ocean. After a comprehensive 5-month remodelling project, this hotel promises to set a new standard for luxury amongst Algarve resorts, with 248 stunningly refurbished bedrooms, suites with balconies and new Family Rooms for larger groups. From the moment I walked in I loved the ambience, peaceful colour tones, and views over the iconic golden cliffs of the Algarve to the Atlantic. Rooms offer a range of views but I would definitely pay the extra to have a sea view room.  Gastronomy is high on the agenda and a diversity of dining experiences is available at six restaurants and bars. Take an inspiring journey through International Cuisine at Med Food & Wine, or savour the sophisticated side of Portuguese gastronomy at The One Restaurant. Mare Bistro keeps guests satisfied with light, delicious bites and the freshest catches of the day, all with stunning sea front and cliff views. I had a wonderful meal at The One Restaurant of Portuguese inspired modernist Asian infused dishes paired with perfect local Algarve wines.

On day four, my route takes me still East but slightly inland to the quaint hilltop village of Alcantarilha and the Amendoeira Golf Resort. As I drive in and up to the resort, set as it is on an elevated position in an area of outstanding natural beauty, I am immediately struck by the vastness of the buildings and blush pink Moorish architecture, with elegant arches and shady terraces, set against a backdrop of the lush valleys of almond, olive and carob trees and the Monchique mountains beyond.

The Clubhouse is the hub of the resort where the pro shop, restaurants and bar are located, the terrace has wonderful views across the two golf courses. There is a resort shuttle bus that will pick up and take you to anywhere on the resort. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at the clubhouse. Accommodation is in a choice of functional one- and two-bedroom apartments and villas.  

With two award-winning 18-hole courses; Faldo and O’Connor Jnr, Golf Academy with great practice facilities, plus the only 9-hole floodlit course in Portugal, your golf will always be challenged. If you are a group of golfers and look to stay in the complex, the resort can arrange a fun evening with a BBQ at the floodlit course, which has its own club house. All green fees on the 18-hole courses include a shared buggy, which is a must as the courses cover a vast area.

From Alcantarilha I drive back toward the coast to the luxury marina resort of Vilamoura and the Anantara Vilamoura Resort Hotel, the only offering in Portugal from the high-end contemporary hotel group Anantara Group who put sustainability at the core of their ethos.  This 5-star hotel has golf as a fundamental and as such overlooks the ‘Victoria’ course, hailed as the most ambitious golf project Portugal had ever witnessed and designed by true golfing legend, Arnold Palmer. Now considered one of the best golf courses in Portugal, one of the most challenging in Europe, which has made it the obvious venue of choice for many of the top international tournaments and the host venue to the Portugal Masters on every occasion since 2007. Just 10 minutes’ drive from Vilamoura Marina with its luxury yachts and nightlife, the hotel offers, tranquillity and a high-quality dining experience.  The signature restaurant EMO, (which has been recognised for three consecutive years as the ‘Wine Spectator Best of Awards of Excellence) is quite unique in putting the discovery of its extensive wine cellar, which boasts 350 expertly selected wines, as the driver in its menu creation. Selected wines are accompanied by local Portuguese cuisine, with dishes specially created to complement each distinct glass.  Bespoke offerings from Dine by Design, tailored private dining options, to the Spice Spoons cooking classes, a Portuguese Cooking experience, give a range of quality dining experiences.

The 5-star Tivoli Marina Hotel, from the same stable as the Tivioli Carvoeiro, is similarly contemporary and airy.  Your choice of type of room is less important here than its view and almost all rooms have either an ocean or marina view. Refurbishment of rooms is ongoing so make sure you request a newly refurbed option.

It is often a criticism of Vilamoura Marina that it’s luxury has removed its Portuguese grit and earthiness and that one could be at any anonymous luxury marina, don’t’ believe a word of it! There are hidden gems around every corner and I was lucky enough to eat at the ‘Universal Restaurante’, a traditional Portuguese restaurant, just a short hop from the main marina area.

I then headed to Quinta do Lago to see the recently reopened South Course, and have lunch at the Clubhouse, which all lived up to expectations. Quinta do Lago has three 18-hole championship courses; North, South and Laranjal, all worth including in your itinerary. The resort now offers accommodation ranging from luxury villas to the quirky boutique, Magnolia Hotel, which brings a taste of retro Palm Springs to the Algarve!

And so, to grand old dame of the Algarve the 5-star Dona Filipa Hotel in Vale do Lobo.  Right on the beach front and newly refurbished, the hotel blends modern design with classic Portuguese style.  Golfers can choose to play a wide array of golf courses including the hotels world famous, San Lorenzo and Pinheiros Altos, as well as the other courses in the area; Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago courses. Just short walk away is Praca which has numerous restaurants from Italian to Mexican and bars and clubs.

I then continued my journey east, passed Faro, to the relatively undiscovered area of the Eastern Algarve, I hadn’t been to this area for more than 20 years and despite some significant development it has retained its Portuguese charm with a more rustic and earthier ambience than its western neighbour. Six 18-hole golf courses, which include the number one course in Portugal, Monte Rei, make for an impressive golf experience for the visitor, with all six courses within 20-30-minute drive of each other and the array of hotels available. Amongst this choice of magnificent courses, a special mention needs to be made of Quinta do Vale, a Seve Ballesteros designed course overlooking the river border between Portugal and Spain, Quinta da Ria and Quinta da Cima, all excellent resort courses, reminiscent of the parkland course of Florida, with lush green fairways, flat lies, large bunkers, and fast greens all kept in excellent conditions and with impressive views of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.

I stayed at the 65 room, Octant Hotel Praia Verde, Portuguese architecture seems to favour the contemporary but this hotel is an impressive move toward the modern with a steel structure clad in slate rising in a quarter circle from lush pine forest. Surrounded by the white sand beach, salt pans in neighbouring Castro Marim, small coves and close to the Guadiana River which delineates Portugal from Spain. The location of the hotel is quite spectacular. An interesting fact - did you know that the proximity to the Mediterranean here means the Atlantic is considerably warmer than the western Algarve?

The interior of the hotel is equally cool, both in vibe and ambiance but somehow mixed with Portuguese warmth. The hotel lobby doubles as an open market with local produce set out to entice. The restaurant takes up most of the ground floor and has a window into the kitchens, where you can see the Chef preparing the food. They are very proud of the food they service here, wherever possible, all locally sourced. Being close to the coastline, I decided to go with seafood, squid starter followed by tuna, with a very unusual dessert, my host had the lamb cutlets, the whole experience was extremely enjoyable. Someone described the venue as a restaurant with rooms and I would add with well-designed and decorated rooms.

From here I moved to the impeccable 5-star Monte Rei Resort, a new concept in the Algarve offering a selection of luxury residences inspired by the lifestyle of the modern consumer. It offers the discerning traveller and golf enthusiast the ultimate comfort and convenience. I stayed in their new Clubhouse Residences, cool and sleek, these luxurious and spacious two- and three-bedroom apartments are all that is good about modern Portuguese architecture, with white open spaces with a bright airy feel. All open to views of their own heated swimming pool and 18th hole beyond.

At the time of my visit, Paul Stuart, Head Professional at the London Golf Club, was hosting a Front 9 Travel Coaching Trip. Our group stayed in the hotels linked three-bedroom villas with all the comfort and charm of a private home, individual bedrooms, en-suite bathrooms, all elegantly furnished and surrounded by extensive manicured gardens, generous terraces and private outdoor dining area.  

Breakfast and lunch were serviced at the Grill Restaurant at Club House and our pre-arranged dinners at Veranda Restaurant, which is located close to the villas, here you will also find another swimming pool, tennis courts, gym, steam room, sauna and massage room. The resort has a shuttle bus to take you around the resort, it was very reliable and prompt. The service across the whole resort was second to none, friendly professional and welcoming.

I can see why Monte Rei is the No.1 course in Portugal, situated as it is in the quiet countryside the condition is immaculate, the design challenging and the local bird life interesting, and noisy, were they laughing at my golf!!! Each hole is carved expertly through the terrain, with wide fairways from the tee that narrow wickedly as you approach the bunker guarded greens. Thankfully, buggies with GPS are provided, an essential for this challenging course.

Paul’s coaching trip was a huge success with our clients who not only improved their golf skills through on course coaching and use of the impressive driving range, but made new friendships with like-minded golf mad people. The putting technics and drills he used have really helped my game!! I would highly recommend a coaching trip during our autumn/winter; it is a great way to have something to focus on prior to the golf season.